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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate familiar high-end venues. Yet, situated near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has made the owners totally shocked.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks the proprietor, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their small restaurant achieving such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate outside its own doors. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.